Articles | Volume 25, issue 7
https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-25-2379-2025
https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-25-2379-2025
Research article
 | 
17 Jul 2025
Research article |  | 17 Jul 2025

Semi-empirical forecast modelling of rip-current and shore-break wave hazards

Bruno Castelle, Jeoffrey Dehez, Jean-Philippe Savy, Sylvain Liquet, and David Carayon

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Cited articles

Aagaard, T., Greenwood, B., and Nielsen, J.: Mean currents and sediment transport in a rip channel, Mar. Geol., 140, 25–45, https://doi.org/10.1016/S0025-3227(97)00025-X, 1997. a
Arozarena, I., Houser, C., Echeverria, A., and Brannstrom, C.: The rip current hazard in Costa Rica, Nat. Hazards, 77, 753–768, https://doi.org/10.1007/s11069-015-1626-9, 2015. a
Atkinson, A. L., Power, H. E., Moura, T., Hammond, T., Callaghan, D. P., and Baldock, T. E.: Assessment of runup predictions by empirical models on non-truncated beaches on the south-east Australian coast, Coast. Eng., 119, 15–31, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.10.001, 2017. a
Austin, M., Scott, T. M., Brown, J. W., Brown, J. A., MacMahan, J. H., Masselink, G., and Russell, P.: Temporal observations of rip current circulation on a macro-tidal beach, Cont. Shelf. Res., 30, 1149–1165, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2010.03.005, 2010. a
Austin, M., Scott, T. M., Russell, P. E., and Masselink, G.: Rip current prediction: development, validation and evaluation of an operational tool, J. Coast. Res., 29, 283–300, https://doi.org/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-12-00093.1, 2013. a
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Short summary
This paper introduces two new, simple, physics-informed hazard forecast models of rip current and shore-break waves, which are the two primary natural hazards beachgoers are exposed to in the surf zone. These models, which depend on a limited number of free parameters, accurately predict rip-current and shore-break wave hazard levels, including their modulation by tide elevation and incident wave conditions, opening new perspectives for forecasting multiple surf-zone hazards on sandy beaches.
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