Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences
Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences
NHESS
Articles | Volume 25, issue 7
Articles | Volume 25, issue 7
https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-25-2379-2025
© Author(s) 2025. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-25-2379-2025
© Author(s) 2025. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
Articles | Volume 25, issue 7
Research article
 | 
17 Jul 2025
Research article |  | 17 Jul 2025

Semi-empirical forecast modelling of rip-current and shore-break wave hazards

Bruno Castelle, Jeoffrey Dehez, Jean-Philippe Savy, Sylvain Liquet, and David Carayon

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Latest update: 18 Sep 2025
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Short summary
This paper introduces two new, simple, physics-informed hazard forecast models of rip current and shore-break waves, which are the two primary natural hazards beachgoers are exposed to in the surf zone. These models, which depend on a limited number of free parameters, accurately predict rip-current and shore-break wave hazard levels, including their modulation by tide elevation and incident wave conditions, opening new perspectives for forecasting multiple surf-zone hazards on sandy beaches.
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