Research article 09 Oct 2019
Research article | 09 Oct 2019
Environmental controls on surf zone injuries on high-energy beaches
Bruno Castelle et al.
Related authors
Elias de Korte, Bruno Castelle, and Eric Tellier
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2075–2091, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2075-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2075-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
We use a statistical model to address the controls and interactions of environmental (wave, tide, weather, beach morphology) data on surf zone injuries along a sandy coast where shore-break and rip-current hazards co-exist. Although fair but limited predictive life-risk skill is found, the approach provides new insight into the environmental controls, their interactions and their respective contribution to hazard and exposure, with implications for the development of public education messaging.
Lea Uebelhoer, William Koon, Mitchell D. Harley, Jasmin C. Lawes, and Robert W. Brander
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 22, 909–926, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-909-2022, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-909-2022, 2022
Short summary
Short summary
Beachgoers at unpatrolled Australian beaches were surveyed to gain an understanding of their demographics, beach safety knowledge, and behaviour. Most visited unpatrolled beaches out of convenience and because they wanted to visit a quiet location. Despite being infrequent beachgoers, with poor swimming and hazard identification skills, most intended to enter the water. Authorities should go beyond the
swim between the flagssafety message, as people will always swim at unpatrolled beaches.
Elias de Korte, Bruno Castelle, and Eric Tellier
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2075–2091, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2075-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2075-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
We use a statistical model to address the controls and interactions of environmental (wave, tide, weather, beach morphology) data on surf zone injuries along a sandy coast where shore-break and rip-current hazards co-exist. Although fair but limited predictive life-risk skill is found, the approach provides new insight into the environmental controls, their interactions and their respective contribution to hazard and exposure, with implications for the development of public education messaging.
Sebastian J. Pitman, Katie Thompson, Deirdre E. Hart, Kevin Moran, Shari L. Gallop, Robert W. Brander, and Adam Wooler
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 115–128, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-115-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-115-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
This study aimed to identify how well beach users could spot rip currents in real time at the beach. It was performed in response to the fact that rip currents are the leading cause of drownings on recreational beaches worldwide. We found that only one in five people were able to spot the rip current, meaning the vast majority would be unable to make good decisions about where it is safe to swim at the beach.
B. Chris Brewster, Richard E. Gould, and Robert W. Brander
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 19, 389–397, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-19-389-2019, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-19-389-2019, 2019
Short summary
Short summary
Rip currents are the greatest hazard to swimmers at surf beaches, but studies of the percentage of rescues and number of drownings attributable to rip currents have reached varying conclusions. This study uses rescue data reported to the United States Lifesaving Association by surf beach rescuers to show that rip currents are the primary cause of an average of more than 80 % of surf rescues, and to estimate that, they are the primary contributor to over 100 drowning deaths annually in the US.
Chris Houser, Sarah Trimble, Robert Brander, B. Chris Brewster, Greg Dusek, Deborah Jones, and John Kuhn
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 17, 1003–1024, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-17-1003-2017, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-17-1003-2017, 2017
Short summary
Short summary
Rip currents pose a major global beach hazard. Despite increased social research into beach-goer experience, little is known about levels of rip current knowledge within the general population. This study describes results of an online survey to determine the extent of rip current knowledge across the United States, with the aim of improving and enhancing existing beach safety education materials. Results suggest a need for locally specific and verified rip forecasts and signage.
Related subject area
Sea, Ocean and Coastal Hazards
Submarine landslide source modeling using the 3D slope stability analysis method for the 2018 Palu, Sulawesi, tsunami
Characteristics and beach safety knowledge of beachgoers on unpatrolled surf beaches in Australia
Robust uncertainty quantification of the volume of tsunami ionospheric holes for the 2011 Tohoku-Oki earthquake: towards low-cost satellite-based tsunami warning systems
Correlation of wind waves and sea level variations on the coast of the seasonally ice-covered Gulf of Finland
The role of morphodynamics in predicting coastal flooding from storms on a dissipative beach with sea level rise conditions
Multilayer modelling of waves generated by explosive subaqueous volcanism
Statistical estimation of spatial wave extremes for tropical cyclones from small data samples: validation of the STM-E approach using long-term synthetic cyclone data for the Caribbean Sea
Development of damage curves for buildings near La Rochelle during storm Xynthia based on insurance claims and hydrodynamic simulations
Investigating the interaction of waves and river discharge during compound flooding at Breede Estuary, South Africa
Still normal? Near-real-time evaluation of storm surge events in the context of climate change
The influence of infragravity waves on the safety of coastal defences: a case study of the Dutch Wadden Sea
The role of heat wave events on the occurrence and persistence of thermal stratification in the southern North Sea
Assessment of potential beach erosion risk and impact of coastal zone development: a case study on Bongpo–Cheonjin Beach
Characteristics and coastal effects of a destructive marine storm in the Gulf of Naples (southern Italy)
Probabilistic, high-resolution tsunami predictions in northern Cascadia by exploiting sequential design for efficient emulation
Real-time coastal flood hazard assessment using DEM-based hydrogeomorphic classifiers
Towards using state-of-the-art climate models to help constrain estimates of unprecedented UK storm surges
Review article: Extreme marine events revealed by lagoonal sedimentary records in Ghar El Melh during the last 2500 years in the northeast of Tunisia
Exploring the partial use of the Mo.S.E. system as effective adaptation to rising flood frequency of Venice
Characteristics of two tsunamis generated by successive Mw 7.4 and Mw 8.1 earthquakes in Kermadec Islands on March 4, 2021
Variable-resolution building exposure modelling for earthquake and tsunami scenario-based risk assessment: an application case in Lima, Peru
The Mw 7.5 Tadine (Maré, Loyalty Islands) earthquake and related tsunami of 5 December 2018: seismotectonic context and numerical modeling
Tidal flood area mapping in the face of climate change scenarios: case study in a tropical estuary in the Brazilian semi-arid region
Distribution of coastal high water level during extreme events around the UK and Irish coasts
Occurrence of pressure-forced meteotsunami events in the eastern Yellow Sea during 2010–2019
Tsunami heights and limits in 1945 along the Makran coast estimated from testimony gathered 7 decades later in Gwadar, Pasni and Ormara
Sea-level rise in Venice: historic and future trends (review article)
Extreme floods of Venice: characteristics, dynamics, past and future evolution (review article)
The prediction of floods in Venice: methods, models and uncertainty (review article)
Venice flooding and sea level: past evolution, present issues, and future projections (introduction to the special issue)
Estimation of the non-exceedance probability of extreme storm surges in South Korea using tidal-gauge data
Towards an efficient storm surge and inundation forecasting system over the Bengal delta: chasing the Supercyclone Amphan
Performance of the Adriatic early warning system during the multi-meteotsunami event of 11–19 May 2020: an assessment using energy banners
Characteristics of building fragility curves for seismic and non-seismic tsunamis: case studies of the 2018 Sunda Strait, 2018 Sulawesi–Palu, and 2004 Indian Ocean tsunamis
Deep uncertainties in shoreline change projections: an extra-probabilistic approach applied to sandy beaches
Tsunami propagation kernel and its applications
A Bayesian network approach to modelling rip-current drownings and shore-break wave injuries
Regional analysis of multivariate compound coastal flooding potential around Europe and environs: sensitivity analysis and spatial patterns
Tsunami damage to ports: cataloguing damage to create fragility functions from the 2011 Tohoku event
Spatially compounded surge events: an example from hurricanes Matthew and Florence
A cross-scale study for compound flooding processes during Hurricane Florence
Reconstruction of flow conditions from 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami deposits at the Phra Thong island using a deep neural network inverse model
Real-time Tsunami Force Prediction by Mode Decomposition-Based Surrogate Modeling
Non-stationary analysis of water level extremes in Latvian waters, Baltic Sea, during 1961–2018
An efficient two-layer landslide-tsunami numerical model: effects of momentum transfer validated with physical experiments of waves generated by granular landslides
Oceanic response to the consecutive Hurricanes Dorian and Humberto (2019) in the Sargasso Sea
Multilayer-HySEA model validation for landslide-generated tsunamis – Part 1: Rigid slides
Multilayer-HySEA model validation for landslide-generated tsunamis – Part 2: Granular slides
Timescales of emergence of chronic flooding in the major economic center of Guadeloupe
Impact of compound flood event on coastal critical infrastructures considering current and future climate
Chatuphorn Somphong, Anawat Suppasri, Kwanchai Pakoksung, Tsuyoshi Nagasawa, Yuya Narita, Ryunosuke Tawatari, Shohei Iwai, Yukio Mabuchi, Saneiki Fujita, Shuji Moriguchi, Kenjiro Terada, Cipta Athanasius, and Fumihiko Imamura
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 22, 891–907, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-891-2022, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-891-2022, 2022
Short summary
Short summary
The majority of past research used hypothesized landslides to simulate tsunamis, but they were still unable to properly explain the observed data. In this study, submarine landslides were simulated by using a slope-failure-theory-based numerical model for the first time. The findings were verified with post-event field observational data. They indicated the potential presence of submarine landslide sources in the southern part of the bay and were consistent with the observational tsunamis.
Lea Uebelhoer, William Koon, Mitchell D. Harley, Jasmin C. Lawes, and Robert W. Brander
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 22, 909–926, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-909-2022, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-909-2022, 2022
Short summary
Short summary
Beachgoers at unpatrolled Australian beaches were surveyed to gain an understanding of their demographics, beach safety knowledge, and behaviour. Most visited unpatrolled beaches out of convenience and because they wanted to visit a quiet location. Despite being infrequent beachgoers, with poor swimming and hazard identification skills, most intended to enter the water. Authorities should go beyond the
swim between the flagssafety message, as people will always swim at unpatrolled beaches.
Ryuichi Kanai, Masashi Kamogawa, Toshiyasu Nagao, Alan Smith, and Serge Guillas
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 22, 849–868, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-849-2022, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-849-2022, 2022
Short summary
Short summary
The air pressure created by a tsunami causes a depression in the electron density in the ionosphere. The depression is measured at sparsely distributed, moving GPS satellite locations. We provide an estimate of the volume of the depression. When applied to the 2011 Tohoku-Oki earthquake in Japan, our method can warn of a tsunami event within 15 min of the earthquake, even when using only 5 % of the data. Thus satellite-based warnings could be implemented across the world with our approach.
Milla M. Johansson, Jan-Victor Björkqvist, Jani Särkkä, Ulpu Leijala, and Kimmo K. Kahma
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 22, 813–829, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-813-2022, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-813-2022, 2022
Short summary
Short summary
We analysed the correlation of sea level and wind waves at a coastal location in the Gulf of Finland using tide gauge data, wave measurements, and wave simulations. The correlation was positive for southwesterly winds and negative for northeasterly winds. Probabilities of high total water levels (sea level + wave crest) are underestimated if sea level and waves are considered independent. Suitably chosen copula functions can account for the dependence.
Jairo E. Cueto, Luis J. Otero Díaz, Silvio R. Ospino-Ortiz, and Alec Torres-Freyermuth
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 22, 713–728, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-713-2022, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-713-2022, 2022
Short summary
Short summary
We investigate the importance of morphodynamics on flooding estimation during storms with sea level rise conditions on a microtidal beach. XBeach and SWAN were the numerical models used to test several case studies. The results indicate that numerical modeling of flooding should be approached by considering morphodynamics; ignoring them can underestimate flooding by ~ 15 %. Moreover, beach erosion and flooding are intensified by sea level rise and high tides in ~ 69 % and ~ 65 %, respectively.
Matthew W. Hayward, Colin N. Whittaker, Emily M. Lane, William L. Power, Stéphane Popinet, and James D. L. White
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 22, 617–637, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-617-2022, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-617-2022, 2022
Short summary
Short summary
Volcanic eruptions can produce tsunamis through multiple mechanisms. We present validation cases for a numerical method used in simulating waves caused by submarine explosions: a laboratory flume experiment and waves generated by explosions at field scale. We then demonstrate the use of the scheme for simulating analogous volcanic eruptions, illustrating the resulting wavefield. We show that this scheme models such dispersive sources more proficiently than standard tsunami models.
Ryota Wada, Jeremy Rohmer, Yann Krien, and Philip Jonathan
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 22, 431–444, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-431-2022, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-431-2022, 2022
Short summary
Short summary
Characterizing extreme wave environments caused by tropical cyclones in the Caribbean Sea near Guadeloupe is difficult because cyclones rarely pass near the location of interest. STM-E (space-time maxima and exposure) model utilizes wave data during cyclones on a spatial neighbourhood. Long-duration wave data generated from a database of synthetic tropical cyclones are used to evaluate the performance of STM-E. Results indicate STM-E provides estimates with small bias and realistic uncertainty.
Manuel Andres Diaz Loaiza, Jeremy D. Bricker, Remi Meynadier, Trang Minh Duong, Rosh Ranasinghe, and Sebastiaan N. Jonkman
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 22, 345–360, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-345-2022, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-345-2022, 2022
Short summary
Short summary
Extratropical cyclones are one of the major causes of coastal floods in Europe and the world. Understanding the development process and the flooding of storm Xynthia, together with the damages that occurred during the storm, can help to forecast future losses due to other similar storms. In the present paper, an analysis of shallow water variables (flood depth, velocity, etc.) or coastal variables (significant wave height, energy flux, etc.) is done in order to develop damage curves.
Sunna Kupfer, Sara Santamaria-Aguilar, Lara van Niekerk, Melanie Lück-Vogel, and Athanasios T. Vafeidis
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 22, 187–205, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-187-2022, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-187-2022, 2022
Short summary
Short summary
In coastal regions, flooding can occur from combined tides, storms, river discharge, and waves. Effects of waves are commonly neglected when assessing flooding, although these may strongly contribute to extreme water levels. We find that waves combined with tides and river discharge at Breede Estuary, South Africa, increased flood extent and depth and caused earlier flooding than when waves were neglected. This highlights the need to consider all major flood drivers in future flood assessments.
Xin Liu, Insa Meinke, and Ralf Weisse
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 22, 97–116, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-97-2022, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-97-2022, 2022
Short summary
Short summary
Storm surges represent a threat to low-lying coastal areas. In the aftermath of severe events, it is often discussed whether the events were unusual. Such information is not readily available from observations but needs contextualization with long-term statistics. An approach that provides such information in near real time was developed and implemented for the German coast. It is shown that information useful for public and scientific debates can be provided in near real time.
Christopher H. Lashley, Sebastiaan N. Jonkman, Jentsje van der Meer, Jeremy D. Bricker, and Vincent Vuik
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 22, 1–22, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-1-2022, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-22-1-2022, 2022
Short summary
Short summary
Many coastlines around the world have shallow foreshores (e.g. salt marshes and mudflats) that reduce storm waves and the risk of coastal flooding. However, most of the studies that tried to quantify this effect have excluded the influence of very long waves, which often dominate in shallow water. Our newly developed framework addresses this oversight and suggests that safety along these coastlines may be overestimated, since these very long waves are largely neglected in flood risk assessments.
Wei Chen, Joanna Staneva, Sebastian Grayek, Johannes Schulz-Stellenfleth, and Jens Greinert
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. Discuss., https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-2021-392, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-2021-392, 2022
Preprint under review for NHESS
Short summary
Short summary
This study is the first to link the occurrence and persistence of density stratification in the southern North Sea to the increased number of extreme marine heatwaves. We further identified the role of the cold spells at the early stage of a year to the intensity of thermal stratification in summer. In a broader context, this research will have fundamental significance for further discussion of the secondary effect of heatwave events, such as in ecosystems, fisheries, and sediment dynamics.
Changbin Lim, Tae Kon Kim, Sahong Lee, Yoon Jeong Yeon, and Jung Lyul Lee
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 3827–3842, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3827-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3827-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
This study aimed to quantitatively assess erosion risk. Methods for assessing each potential were proposed, and the corresponding erosion risk was calculated by introducing a combined potential erosion risk curve presenting the erosion consequence. In addition the method for verifying the risk was examined for the east coast of South Korea. We believe that our study makes a significant contribution to the literature and plays a key role in identifying methods that prevent erosion.
Gaia Mattei, Diana Di Luccio, Guido Benassai, Giorgio Anfuso, Giorgio Budillon, and Pietro Aucelli
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 3809–3825, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3809-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3809-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
This study examines the characteristics of a destructive marine storm in the strongly inhabited coastal area of the Gulf of Naples, along the Italian coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea, which is highly vulnerable to marine storms due to the accelerated relative sea level rise trend and the increased anthropogenic impact on the coastal area. Finally, a first assessment of the return period of this event was evaluated using local press reports on damage to urban furniture and port infrastructures.
Dimitra M. Salmanidou, Joakim Beck, Peter Pazak, and Serge Guillas
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 3789–3807, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3789-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3789-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
The potential of large-magnitude earthquakes in Cascadia poses a significant threat over a populous region of North America. We use statistical emulation to assess the probabilistic tsunami hazard from such events in the region of the city of Victoria, British Columbia. The emulators are built following a sequential design approach for information gain over the input space. To predict the hazard at coastal locations of the region, two families of potential seabed deformation are considered.
Keighobad Jafarzadegan, David Muñoz, Hamed Moftakhari, Joseph Gutenson, Guarav Savant, and Hamid Moradkhani
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. Discuss., https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-2021-359, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-2021-359, 2021
Revised manuscript accepted for NHESS
Short summary
Short summary
The high population settled in coastal regions and the potential damages imposed by coastal floods highlight the need for improving coastal flood hazard assessment techniques. This study introduces a topography-based approach for rapid estimation of flood hazard areas in the Savannah river delta. Our validation results demonstrate that, besides the high efficiency of the proposed approach, the estimated areas are accurately overlapping with reference flood maps.
Tom Howard and Simon David Paul Williams
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 3693–3712, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3693-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3693-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
We use a computer model to simulate storm surges around the coast of the United Kingdom. The model is based on the physics of the atmosphere and oceans. We hope that this will help us to better quantify extreme events: even bigger than those that have been seen in the tide gauge record. Our model simulates events which are comparable to the catastrophic 1953 storm surge. Model simulations have the potential to reduce the uncertainty in inferences of the most extreme surge return levels.
Balkis Samah Kohila, Laurent Dezileau, Soumaya Boussetta, Tarek Melki, and Nejib Kallel
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 3645–3661, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3645-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3645-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
The Tunisian coast has been historically affected by extreme marine submersion events resulting from storms or tsunamis. To establish adaptation and mitigation strategies, it is essential to study these events in terms of spatial and temporal variability. Using a geological archive (sediment cores and surface sediments) retrieved from this coastal area of Tunisia, we present a reconstruction of past marine submersion events over the last 2500 years.
Riccardo A. Mel
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 3629–3644, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3629-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3629-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
The present study investigates the hydrodynamics of the Venice lagoon if a partial use of the Mo.S.E. system (i.e. by closing the Lido inlet only) will be adopted.
A linear relationship is obtained between the seaward tidal amplitude and the reduction of the sea level peak at Venice, Burano, and Chioggia. Tidal period and wind have been accounted for. Two-thirds of the flood events can be effectively mitigated by such an operation under relative sea level rise scenarios up to +0.4 m.
Yuchen Wang, Mohammad Heidarzadeh, Kenji Satake, and Gui Hu
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. Discuss., https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-2021-369, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-2021-369, 2021
Revised manuscript accepted for NHESS
Short summary
Short summary
Tsunami waveforms contain the features of its source, propagation path, and local topography. On March 4, 2021, two tsunamis were generated by earthquakes in Kermadec Islands, New Zealand within two hours. This rare case gives us a valuable opportunity to study the characteristics of two tsunamis. We analyzed the records of two tsunamis at tide gauges by spectral analysis tools. It is found that two tsunamis superpose during the few hours after the arrival of the second tsunami.
Juan Camilo Gomez-Zapata, Nils Brinckmann, Sven Harig, Raquel Zafrir, Massimiliano Pittore, Fabrice Cotton, and Andrey Babeyko
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 3599–3628, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3599-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3599-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
We present variable-resolution boundaries based on central Voronoi tessellations (CVTs) to spatially aggregate building exposure models and physical vulnerability assessment. Their geo-cell sizes are inversely proportional to underlying distributions that account for the combination between hazard intensities and exposure proxies. We explore their efficiency and associated uncertainties in risk–loss estimations and mapping from decoupled scenario-based earthquakes and tsunamis in Lima, Peru.
Jean Roger, Bernard Pelletier, Maxime Duphil, Jérôme Lefèvre, Jérôme Aucan, Pierre Lebellegard, Bruce Thomas, Céline Bachelier, and David Varillon
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 3489–3508, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3489-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3489-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
This study deals with the 5 December 2018 tsunami in New Caledonia and Vanuatu (southwestern Pacific) triggered by a Mw 7.5 earthquake that occurred southeast of Maré, Loyalty Islands, and was widely felt in the region. Numerical modeling results of the tsunami using a non-uniform and a uniform slip model compared to real tide gauge records and observations are globally well correlated for the uniform slip model, especially in far-field locations.
Paulo Victor N. Araújo, Venerando E. Amaro, Leonlene S. Aguiar, Caio C. Lima, and Alexandre B. Lopes
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 3353–3366, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3353-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3353-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
The approach of this work is a tidal flood risk mapping methodology for climate change scenarios in a semi-arid region with a strong environmental and social appeal. The study area has been suffering severe consequences from flooding by tides in recent years. High-geodetic-precision data, together with tidal return period statistics and data from current sea level rise scenarios, were used. This case study can serve as a basis for future management actions and as a model to be copied.
Julia Rulent, Lucy M. Bricheno, J. A. Mattias Green, Ivan D. Haigh, and Huw Lewis
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 3339–3351, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3339-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3339-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
High coastal total water levels (TWLs) can lead to flooding and hazardous conditions for coastal communities and environment. In this research we are using numerical models to study the interactions between the three main components of the TWL (waves, tides, and surges) on UK and Irish coasts during winter 2013/14. The main finding of this research is that extreme waves and surges can indeed happen together, even at high tide, but they often occurred simultaneously 2–3 h before high tide.
Myung-Seok Kim, Seung-Buhm Woo, Hyunmin Eom, and Sung Hyup You
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 3323–3337, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3323-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3323-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
We present spatial and temporal trends of meteotsunami occurrence in the eastern Yellow Sea over the past decade (2010–2019). Also, the improved meteotsunami monitoring/warning system was proposed based on occurrence characteristics of an air pressure disturbance and meteotsunami on the classified meteotsunami events. The guidance regarding the operation period, potential hot spot, and risk level of the meteotsunamis will be helpful to monitoring/warning system operators.
Hira Ashfaq Lodhi, Shoaib Ahmed, and Haider Hasan
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 3085–3096, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3085-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-3085-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
The study summarizes historical accounts, eyewitness accounts and newspaper items to report the impact of the 1945 tsunami along the Makran coast of Pakistan. A field survey conducted in Gwadar, Pasni and Ormara quantifies inundation parameters in the three cities, using the landmarks reported in eyewitness accounts and newspaper items. The quantification of runup and inundation extents is based either on the field survey or on old maps.
Davide Zanchettin, Sara Bruni, Fabio Raicich, Piero Lionello, Fanny Adloff, Alexey Androsov, Fabrizio Antonioli, Vincenzo Artale, Eugenio Carminati, Christian Ferrarin, Vera Fofonova, Robert J. Nicholls, Sara Rubinetti, Angelo Rubino, Gianmaria Sannino, Giorgio Spada, Rémi Thiéblemont, Michael Tsimplis, Georg Umgiesser, Stefano Vignudelli, Guy Wöppelmann, and Susanna Zerbini
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2643–2678, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2643-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2643-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
Relative sea level in Venice rose by about 2.5 mm/year in the past 150 years due to the combined effect of subsidence and mean sea-level rise. We estimate the likely range of mean sea-level rise in Venice by 2100 due to climate changes to be between about 10 and 110 cm, with an improbable yet possible high-end scenario of about 170 cm. Projections of subsidence are not available, but historical evidence demonstrates that they can increase the hazard posed by climatically induced sea-level rise.
Piero Lionello, David Barriopedro, Christian Ferrarin, Robert J. Nicholls, Mirko Orlić, Fabio Raicich, Marco Reale, Georg Umgiesser, Michalis Vousdoukas, and Davide Zanchettin
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2705–2731, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2705-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2705-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
In this review we describe the factors leading to the extreme water heights producing the floods of Venice. We discuss the different contributions, their relative importance, and the resulting compound events. We highlight the role of relative sea level rise and the observed past and very likely future increase in extreme water heights, showing that they might be up to 160 % higher at the end of the 21st century than presently.
Georg Umgiesser, Marco Bajo, Christian Ferrarin, Andrea Cucco, Piero Lionello, Davide Zanchettin, Alvise Papa, Alessandro Tosoni, Maurizio Ferla, Elisa Coraci, Sara Morucci, Franco Crosato, Andrea Bonometto, Andrea Valentini, Mirko Orlić, Ivan D. Haigh, Jacob Woge Nielsen, Xavier Bertin, André Bustorff Fortunato, Begoña Pérez Gómez, Enrique Alvarez Fanjul, Denis Paradis, Didier Jourdan, Audrey Pasquet, Baptiste Mourre, Joaquín Tintoré, and Robert J. Nicholls
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2679–2704, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2679-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2679-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
The city of Venice relies crucially on a good storm surge forecast to protect its population and cultural heritage. In this paper, we provide a state-of-the-art review of storm surge forecasting, starting from examples in Europe and focusing on the Adriatic Sea and the Lagoon of Venice. We discuss the physics of storm surge, as well as the particular aspects of Venice and new techniques in storm surge modeling. We also give recommendations on what a future forecasting system should look like.
Piero Lionello, Robert J. Nicholls, Georg Umgiesser, and Davide Zanchettin
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2633–2641, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2633-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2633-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
Venice is an iconic place, and a paradigm of huge historical and cultural value is at risk. The threat posed by floods has dramatically increased in recent decades and is expected to continue to grow – and even accelerate – through this century. There is a need to better understand the future evolution of the relative sea level and its extremes and to develop adaptive planning strategies appropriate for present uncertainty, which might not be substantially reduced in the near future.
Sang-Guk Yum, Hsi-Hsien Wei, and Sung-Hwan Jang
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2611–2631, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2611-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2611-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
Developed statistical models to predict the non-exceedance probability of extreme storm surge-induced typhoons. Various probability distribution models were applied to find the best fitting to empirical storm-surge data.
Md. Jamal Uddin Khan, Fabien Durand, Xavier Bertin, Laurent Testut, Yann Krien, A. K. M. Saiful Islam, Marc Pezerat, and Sazzad Hossain
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2523–2541, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2523-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2523-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
The Bay of Bengal is well known for some of the deadliest cyclones in history. At the same time, storm surge forecasting in this region is physically involved and computationally costly. Here we show a proof of concept of a real-time, computationally efficient, and physically consistent forecasting system with an application to the recent Supercyclone Amphan. While challenges remain, our study paves the path forward to the improvement of the quality of localized forecast and disaster management.
Iva Tojčić, Cléa Denamiel, and Ivica Vilibić
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2427–2446, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2427-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2427-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
This study quantifies the performance of the Croatian meteotsunami early warning system (CMeEWS) composed of a network of air pressure and sea level observations developed in order to help coastal communities prepare for extreme events. The system would have triggered the warnings for most of the observed events but also set off some false alarms if it was operational during the multi-meteotsunami event of 11–19 May 2020 in the eastern Adriatic. Further development of the system is planned.
Elisa Lahcene, Ioanna Ioannou, Anawat Suppasri, Kwanchai Pakoksung, Ryan Paulik, Syamsidik Syamsidik, Frederic Bouchette, and Fumihiko Imamura
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2313–2344, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2313-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2313-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
In Indonesia, tsunamis represent a significant risk to coastal communities and buildings. Therefore, it is fundamental to deeply understand the tsunami source impact on buildings and infrastructure. This work provides a novel understanding of the relationship between wave period, ground shaking, liquefaction events, and potential building damage using tsunami fragility curves. This study represents the first investigation of colossal impacts increasing building damage.
Rémi Thiéblemont, Gonéri Le Cozannet, Jérémy Rohmer, Alexandra Toimil, Moisés Álvarez-Cuesta, and Iñigo J. Losada
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2257–2276, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2257-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2257-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
Sea level rise and its acceleration are projected to aggravate coastal erosion over the 21st century. Resulting shoreline projections are deeply uncertain, however, which constitutes a major challenge for coastal planning and management. Our work presents a new extra-probabilistic framework to develop future shoreline projections and shows that deep uncertainties could be drastically reduced by better constraining sea level projections and improving coastal impact models.
Takenori Shimozono
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2093–2108, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2093-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2093-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
Tsunamis are a major threat to low-lying coastal communities. Suddenly generated from their sources in deep water, tsunamis occasionally undergo tremendous amplification in shallow water. There is a need for efficient ways of predicting coastal tsunami transformation during different disaster management phases. The study proposed a novel and rigorous method based on kernel convolution for fast prediction of onshore tsunami waveforms from the observed/simulated wave data away from the coast.
Elias de Korte, Bruno Castelle, and Eric Tellier
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2075–2091, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2075-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2075-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
We use a statistical model to address the controls and interactions of environmental (wave, tide, weather, beach morphology) data on surf zone injuries along a sandy coast where shore-break and rip-current hazards co-exist. Although fair but limited predictive life-risk skill is found, the approach provides new insight into the environmental controls, their interactions and their respective contribution to hazard and exposure, with implications for the development of public education messaging.
Paula Camus, Ivan D. Haigh, Ahmed A. Nasr, Thomas Wahl, Stephen E. Darby, and Robert J. Nicholls
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 2021–2040, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2021-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-2021-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
In coastal regions, floods can arise through concurrent drivers, such as precipitation, river discharge, storm surge, and waves, which exacerbate the impact. In this study, we identify hotspots of compound flooding along the southern coast of the North Atlantic Ocean and the northern coast of the Mediterranean Sea. This regional assessment can be considered a screening tool for coastal management that provides information about which areas are more predisposed to experience compound flooding.
Constance Ting Chua, Adam D. Switzer, Anawat Suppasri, Linlin Li, Kwanchai Pakoksung, David Lallemant, Susanna F. Jenkins, Ingrid Charvet, Terence Chua, Amanda Cheong, and Nigel Winspear
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 1887–1908, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-1887-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-1887-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
Port industries are extremely vulnerable to coastal hazards such as tsunamis. Despite their pivotal role in local and global economies, there has been little attention paid to tsunami impacts on port industries. For the first time, tsunami damage data are being extensively collected for port structures and catalogued into a database. The study also provides fragility curves which describe the probability of damage exceedance for different port industries given different tsunami intensities.
Scott Curtis, Kelley DePolt, Jamie Kruse, Anuradha Mukherji, Jennifer Helgeson, Ausmita Ghosh, and Philip Van Wagoner
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 1759–1767, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-1759-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-1759-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
Storm surge flooding can challenge rescue and recovery operations, especially over large estuaries and populated barrier islands. Understanding the relationship between storm and tidal characteristics and surge timing is important for proper resourcing prior to an event. Here we compare the concurrency of maximum observed surge and areal extent of effective hazard operations for hurricanes Matthew and Florence in eastern North Carolina, USA. Matthew was a more spatially compounded surge event.
Fei Ye, Wei Huang, Yinglong J. Zhang, Saeed Moghimi, Edward Myers, Shachak Pe'eri, and Hao-Cheng Yu
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 1703–1719, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-1703-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-1703-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
Compound flooding is caused by multiple mechanisms contributing to elevated water level simultaneously, which poses higher risks than conventional floods. This study uses a holistic approach to simulate the processes on a wide range of spatial and temporal scales that contributed to the compound flooding during Hurricane Florence in 2018. Sensitivity tests are used to isolate the contribution from each mechanism and identify the region experiencing compound effects, thus supporting management.
Rimali Mitra, Hajime Naruse, and Shigehiro Fujino
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 1667–1683, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-1667-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-1667-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
A case study on the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami was conducted at the Phra Thong island, Thailand, using a deep neural network (DNN) inverse model. The model estimated tsunami characteristics from the deposits at Phra Thong island. The uncertainty quantification of the result was evaluated. The predicted flow conditions and the depositional characteristics were compared with the reported observed values. This DNN model can serve as an essential tool for tsunami hazard mitigation at coastal cities.
Kenta Tozato, Shinsuke Takase, Shuji Moriguchi, Kenjiro Terada, Yu Otake, Yo Fukutani, Kazuya Nojima, Masaaki Sakuraba, and Hiromu Yokosu
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. Discuss., https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-2021-77, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-2021-77, 2021
Revised manuscript accepted for NHESS
Short summary
Short summary
This study presents a novel framework for real-time predictions of time-varying tsunami forces. An instant prediction is realized by the surrogate model constructed from a series of numerical analysis data based on proper orthogonal decomposition. A numerical example was presented to demonstrate the capability of the framework in evaluating the time series of tsunami forces in a selected tsunami-affected area during the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011 with a certain degree of accuracy.
Nadezhda Kudryavtseva, Tarmo Soomere, and Rain Männikus
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 1279–1296, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-1279-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-1279-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
We demonstrate a finding of a very sudden change in the nature of water level extremes in the Gulf of Riga which coincides with weakening of correlation with North Atlantic Oscillation. The shape of the distribution is variable with time; it abruptly changed for several years and was suddenly restored. If similar sudden changes happen in other places in the world, not taking into account the non-stationarity can lead to significant underestimation of future risks from extreme-water-level events.
Martin Franz, Michel Jaboyedoff, Ryan P. Mulligan, Yury Podladchikov, and W. Andy Take
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 1229–1245, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-1229-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-1229-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
A landslide-generated tsunami is a complex phenomenon that involves landslide dynamics, wave dynamics and their interaction. This phenomenon threatens numerous lives and infrastructures around the world. To assess this natural hazard, we developed an efficient numerical model able to simulate the landslide, the momentum transfer and the wave all at once. The good agreement between the numerical simulations and physical experiments validates our model and its novel momentum transfer approach.
Dailé Avila-Alonso, Jan M. Baetens, Rolando Cardenas, and Bernard De Baets
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 837–859, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-837-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-837-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
Hurricanes are extreme storms that induce substantial biophysical changes on oceans. We investigated the effects induced by consecutive Hurricanes Dorian and Humberto over the western Sargasso Sea in 2019 using satellite remote sensing and modelled data. These hurricanes superimposed effects on the upper-ocean response because of the strong induced mixing and upwelling. The sea surface cooling and phytoplankton bloom induced by these hurricanes were higher compared to climatological records.
Jorge Macías, Cipriano Escalante, and Manuel J. Castro
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 775–789, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-775-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-775-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
The validation of numerical models is a first unavoidable step before their use as predictive tools. This requirement is even more necessary when the developed models are going to be used for risk assessment in natural events where human lives are involved. The present work is the first step in this task for the Multilayer-HySEA model, a novel dispersive multilayer model of the HySEA suite developed at the University of Malaga, following the standards proposed by the NTHMP of the US.
Jorge Macías, Cipriano Escalante, and Manuel J. Castro
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 791–805, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-791-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-791-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
Numerical models need to be validated prior to their use as predictive tools. This requirement becomes even more necessary when these models are going to be used for risk assessment in natural hazards where human lives are involved. The present work aims to benchmark the novel Multilayer-HySEA model for landslide-generated tsunamis produced by granular slides, in order to provide to the tsunami community with a robust, efficient, and reliable tool for landslide tsunami hazard assessment.
Gonéri Le Cozannet, Déborah Idier, Marcello de Michele, Yoann Legendre, Manuel Moisan, Rodrigo Pedreros, Rémi Thiéblemont, Giorgio Spada, Daniel Raucoules, and Ywenn de la Torre
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 703–722, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-703-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-703-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
Chronic flooding occurring at high tides under calm weather conditions is an early impact of sea-level rise. This hazard is a reason for concern on tropical islands, where coastal infrastructure is commonly located in low-lying areas. We focus here on the Guadeloupe archipelago, in the French Antilles, where chronic flood events have been reported for about 10 years. We show that the number of such events will increase drastically over the 21st century under continued growth of CO2 emissions.
Mariam Khanam, Giulia Sofia, Marika Koukoula, Rehenuma Lazin, Efthymios I. Nikolopoulos, Xinyi Shen, and Emmanouil N. Anagnostou
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 21, 587–605, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-587-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-21-587-2021, 2021
Short summary
Short summary
Compound extremes correspond to events with multiple concurrent or consecutive drivers, leading to substantial impacts such as infrastructure failure. In many risk assessment and design applications, however, multihazard scenario events are ignored. In this paper, we present a general framework to investigate current and future climate compound-event flood impact on coastal critical infrastructures such as power grid substations.
Cited articles
Aagaard, T. and Vinther, N.: Cross-shore currents in the surf zone: rips or
undertow?, J. Coast. Res., 24, 561–570, 2008.
Aagaard, T., Greenwood, B., and Nielsen, J.: Mean currents and sediment
transport in a rip channel, Mar. Geol., 140, 25–45, 1997.
Almar, R., Castelle, B., Ruessink, B. G., Sénéchal, N., Bonneton,
P., and Marieu, V.: Two- and three-dimensional double-sandbar system behaviour
under intense wave forcing and a meso–macro tidal range, Cont. Shelf Res.,
30, 781–792, 2010.
Angnuureng, D., Almar, R., Sénéchal, N., Castelle, B., Addo, K. A.,
Marieu, V., and Ranasinghe, R.: Shoreline resilience to individual storms and
storm clusters on a meso-macrotidal barred beach, Geomorphology, 290,
265–276, 2017.
Ardhuin, F., Roland, A., Dumas, F., Bennis, A.-C., Sentchev, A., Forget, P.,
Wolf, J., Girard, F., Osuna, P., and Benoit, M.: Numerical wave modeling in
conditions with strong currents: Dissipation, refraction, and relative wind,
J. Phys. Oceanogr., 42, 2101–2120, 2012.
Austin, M., Scott, T., Brown, J., Brown, J. MacMahan, J., Masselink, G., and
Russell, P.: Temporal observations of rip current circulation on a
macro-tidal beach, Cont. Shelf Res., 30, 1149–1165, 2010.
Austin, M. J., Scott, T. M., Russell, P. E., and Masselink, G.: Rip current
prediction: development, validation, and evaluation of an operational tool,
J. Coast. Res., 29, 283–300, 2013.
Austin, M. J., Masselink, G., Scott, T. M., and Russell, P. E.: Water level
controls on macro-tidal rip currents, Cont. Shelf Res., 75, 28–40, 2014.
Balouin, Y., Rey-Valette, H., and Picand, P.-A.: Automatic assessment and
analysis of beach attendance using video images at the lido of Sète
Beach, France, Ocean Coast. Manage., 102, 114–122, 2014.
Battjes, J. A.: Surf similarity, in: Proc. 14th International Conference on
Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, Denmark, 466–480, 1974.
Beratan, K. K. and Osborne, R. H.: Frequency and demographic aspects in
shallow-water diving accidents in southern California, in:
Shallow-water diving accidents at southern California ocean beaches:
demographic, sedimentologic, medical, legal and management perspectivesm edited by: Osborne, R. H.,
University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA, USA, 1987.
Bertin, X., de Bakker, A., van Dongeren, A., Coco, G., Andre, G., Ardhuin,
F., Bonneton, P., Bouchette, F., Castelle, B., Crawford, W. C., Davidson,
M., Deen, M., Dodet, G., Guerin, T., Inc, K., Leckler, F., Mcall, R.,
Muller, H., Olabarrieta, M., Roelvink, J. A., Ruessink, B.G., Sous, D.,
Stutzmann, E., and Tissier, M.: Infragravity waves: from driving mechanisms to
impacts, Earth-Sci. Rev., 177, 774–799, 2018.
Boudière, E., Maisondieu, C., Ardhuin, F., Accensi, M., Pineau-Guillou,
L., and Lepesqueur, J.: A suitable metocean hindcast database for the design of
marine energy converters, Int. J. Mar. Energ., 3–4,
40–52, 2013.
Bradstreet, A., Brander, R., McCarroll, J., Brighton, B., Dominey-Howes, D.,
Drozdzewski, D., Sherker, S., Turner, I., Roberts, A., and MacMahan, J.: Rip
current survival principles: towards consistency, J. Coast. Res., 72, 85–92, 2014.
Brander, R. W.: Field observations on the morphodynamic evolution of a
low-energy rip current system, Mar. Geol., 157, 199–217, 1999.
Brander, R. W. and Scott, T.: Science of the Rip Current Hazard, in: The
Science of Beach Lifeguarding: Principles and Practice, edited by: Tipton, M.,
Wooler, A., and Reilly, T., CRC Press, Boca Raton, 67–86, 2016.
Brander, R. W. and Short, A. D.: Flow kinematics of low-energy rip current
systems, J. Coast. Res., 17, 468–481, 2001.
Brander, R. W., Bradstreet, A., Sherker, S., and MacMahan, J.: Responses of
swimmers caught in rip currents: perspectives on mitigating the global rip
current hazard, International Journal of Aquatic Research and Education, 5,
476–482, 2011.
Brighton, B., Sherker, S., Brander, R., Thompson, M., and Bradstreet, A.: Rip current related drowning deaths and rescues in Australia 2004–2011, Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 13, 1069–1075, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-13-1069-2013, 2013.
Brumaud, S.: Saison touristique 2015 en Aquitaine – La fréquentation des
hôtels et campings au beau fixe, INSEE Analyses Nouvelle-Aquitaine, available at:
https://www.insee.fr/fr/statistiques/1908387 (last access: 25 September 2019), 2016 (in French).
Bruneau, N., Castelle, B., Bonneton, P., Pedreros, R., Almar, R., Bonneton,
N., Bretel, P., Parisot, J.-P., and Senechal, N.: Field observations of an
evolving rip current on a meso-macrotidal well-developed inner bar and rip
morphology, Cont. Shelf Res., 29, 1650–1662, 2009.
Bruneau, N., Bonneton, P., Castelle, B., and Pedreros, R.: Modeling rip current
circulations and vorticity in a high-energy meso-environment, J. Geophys.
Res.-Oceans, 116, C07026, https://doi.org/10.1029/2010JC006343, 2011.
Butel, R., Dupuis, H., and Bonneton, P.: Spatial variability of wave conditions
on the French Atlantic coast using in situ data, J. Coast. Res.
Special Issue, 36, 96–108, 2002.
Castelle, B., Bonneton, P., Dupuis, H., and Sénéchal, N.: Double bar
beach dynamics on the high-energy meso–macrotidal French Aquitanian Coast:
a review, Mar. Geol., 245, 141–159, 2007.
Castelle, B., Scott, T., Brander, R. W., and McCarroll, R. J.: Rip current
types, circulation and hazard, Earth-Sci. Rev., 163, 1–21, 2016a.
Castelle, B., Bujan, S., Ferreira, S., and Dodet, G.: Foredune morphological
changes and beach recovery from the extreme 2013/2014 winter at a
high-energy sandy coast, Mar. Geol., 385, 41–55, 2017.
Castelle, B., Brander, R. W., Tellier, E., Simonnet, B., Scott, T.,
McCarroll, R. J., Campagne, J. M., Cavailhes, T., and Lechevrel, P.: Surf zone hazards and injuries on beaches in SW France, Nat. Hazards, 93, 1317–1335, 2018a.
Castelle, B., Guillot, B., Marieu, V., Chaumillon, E., Hanquiez, V., Bujan,
S., and Poppeschi, C.: Spatial and temporal patterns of shoreline change of a
280-km high-energy disrupted sandy coast from 1950 to 2014: SW France,
Estuar. Coast. Shelf S., 200, 212–223, 2018b.
Chang, S. K., Tominaga, G. T., Wong, J. H., Weldon, E. J., Kaan, K. T., and
Kenneth, T.: Risk factors for water sports-related cervical spine injuries,
J. Trauma, 60, 1041–1046, 2006.
Dalrymple, R. A., MacMahan, J. H., Reniers, A. J. H. M., and Nelko, V.: Rip
currents, Annu. Rev. Fluid Mech., 43, 551–581, 2011.
Davidson, M. A., Turner, I. L., Splinter, K. D., and Harley, M. D.: Annual
prediction of shoreline erosion and subsequent recovery, Coast.
Eng., 130, 14–25, 2017.
Diehm, R. and Armatas, C.: Surfing: An avenue for socially acceptable
risk-taking, satisfying needs for sensation seeking and experience seeking,
Pers. Indiv. Differ., 36, 663–677, 2004.
Dimmick, S., Brazier, D., Wilson, P., and Anderson, S. E.: Injuries of the spine
sustained whilst surfboard riding, Emerg. Radiol., 20, 25–31, 2013.
Dodet, G., Castelle, B., Masselink, G., Scott, T., Davidson, M., Floc'h, F.,
Jackson, D., and Suanez, S.: Beach recovery from extreme storm activity during
the 2013–14 winter along the Atalantic coast of Europe, Earth Surf.
Proc. Land., 44, 393–401, https://doi.org/10.1002/esp.4500, 2019.
Drozdzewski, D., Shaw, W., Dominey-Howes, D., Brander, R., Walton, T., Gero, A., Sherker, S., Goff, J., and Edwick, B.: Surveying rip current survivors: preliminary insights into the experiences of being caught in rip currents, Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 12, 1201–1211, https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-12-1201-2012, 2012.
Drozdzewski, D., Roberts, A., Dominey-Howes, D., and Brander, R: The experiences
of weak and non-swimmers caught in rip currents at Australian beaches,
Aust. Geogr., 46, 15–32, 2015.
Dupoux, J. E., Bernard-Catinat, G., and Brunel, J. M.: Réactualisation du
traitement d'urgence de la noyade, Bordeaux Méd, 14, 1095–1100, 1981 (in
French).
Dusek, G. and Seim, H.: A probabilistic rip current forecast model, J. Coast. Res., 29, 909–925, 2013.
Gilchrist, J. and Branche, C.: Lifeguard Effectiveness, in: The Science of Beach Lifeguarding, edited by: Tipton, M. and Wooler,
A., CRC Press, Boca Raton, USA, 2016.
Guillen, J., Garcia-Olivares, A., Ojeda, E., Osorio, A., Chic, O., and Gonzalez,
R.: Long-term quantification of beach users using video monitoring, J. Coast. Res., 24, 1612–1619, 2008.
Houser, C., Arnott, R., Ulzhofer, S., and Barrett, G.: Nearshore circulation
over transverse bar and rip morphology with oblique wave forcing, Earth
Surf. Proc. Land., 38, 1269–1279, 2013.
Ibarra, E. M.: The use of webcam images to determine tourist–climate
aptitude: favourable weather types for sun and beach tourism on the Alicante
coast (Spain), Int. J. Biometeorol., 55, 373–385, https://doi.org/10.1007/s00484-010-0347-8, 2011.
Kennedy, D. M., Sherker, S., Brighton, B., Weir, A., and Woodroffe, C. D.: Rocky
coast hazards and public safety: moving beyond the beach in coastal risk
management, Ocean Coast. Manage., 82, 85–94, 2013.
Lafon, V., Dupuis, H., Butel, R., Castelle, B., Michel, D., Howa, H., and De
Melo Apoluceno, D.: Morphodynamics of nearshore rhythmic sandbars in a mixed
energy environment (SW France): II. Physical forcing analysis, Estuar.
Coast. Shelf S., 65, 449–462, 2005.
Lascody, R. L.: East central Florida rip current program, Natl. Weather Dig.,
22, 25–30, 1998.
Le Cann, B.: Barotropic tidal dynamics of the Bay of Biscay shelf:
observations, numerical modelling and physical interpretation, Cont. Shelf
Res., 10, 723–758, 1990.
Lorin, J. and Viguier, J.: Hydrosedimentary conditions and present evolution of
Aquitaine Coast, Bull. Inst. Géol. Bassin Aquitaine, 41, 95–108, 1987.
Lowdon, B. J., Pateman, N. A., and Pitman, A. J.: Surfboard-riding injuries, Med.
J. Aust., 2, 613–616, 1983.
Lushine, J. B.: A study of rip current drowning and related weather factors,
Natl. Weather Dig., 16, 15–31, 1991.
MacMahan, J. H., Thornton, E. B., Stanton, T. P., and Reniers, A. J. H. M.:
RIPEX: observations of a rip current system, Mar. Geol., 218, 118–134, 2005.
MacMahan, J. H., Thornton E. B., and Reniers, A. J.: Rip current review, Coast.
Eng., 53, 191–208, 2006.
Masselink, G. an Pattiaratchi, C. B.: Morphological evolution of beach cusps
and associated swash circulation patterns, Mar. Geol., 146, 93–113, 1998.
McCarroll, R. J., Brander, R. W., MacMahan, J. H., Turner, I. L., Reniers,
A. J. H. M., Brown, J. A., Bradstreet, A., and Sherker, S.: Evaluation of
swimmer-based rip current escape strategies, Nat. Hazards, 71, 1821–1846, 2014.
McCarroll, R. J., Castelle, B., Brander, R. W., and Scott, T.: Modelling rip
current flow and bather escape strategies across a transverse bar and rip
channel morphology, Geomorphology, 246, 502–518, 2015.
McCarroll, R. J., Brander, R. W., Scott, T., and Castelle, B.: Bathymetric
controls on rotational surfzone currents, J. Geophys. Res.-Earth, 123, 1295–1316, https://doi.org/10.1029/2017JF004491, 2018.
Menezes, R. A. and Costa, R. V. C.: Resgate e recuperação de 12.037
afogados, J. Bras. Med., 9, 50–64, 1972.
Moran, K. and Weber, J.: Surfing injuries requiring first aid in New Zealand,
2007–2012, Int. J. Aquat. Res. Educ., 7, 192–203, 2013.
Moulton, M., Elgar, S., Raubenheimer, B., Warner, J. C., and Kumar, N.: Rip
currents and alongshore flows in single channels dredged in the surf zone,
J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans, 122, 3799–3816, https://doi.org/10.1002/2016JC012222, 2017a.
Moulton, M., Dusek, G., Elgar, S., and Raubenheimer, B.: Comparison of Rip
Current Hazard Likelihood Forecasts with Observed Rip Current Speeds, Weather
Forecast., 32, 1659–1666, 2017b.
Muller, M. W.: Beach replenishment and surf-zone injuries along the coast of
Delmarva, USA, Ocean Coast. Manage., 151, 127–133, 2018.
Nathanson, A. T.: Surfing Injuries, in: Adventure and Extreme Sports Injuries, edited by: Mei-Dan, O. and Carmont, M., Springer, London, UK, 2013.
NOAA: National Weather Service Weather Fatality, Injury and Damage
Statistics, available at: https://www.weather.gov/hazstat/ (last access: 25 September 2019), 2017.
Pianca, C., Holman, R., and Siegle, E.: Shoreline variability from days to
decades: Results of long-term video imaging, J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans, 120, 2159–2178, https://doi.org/10.1002/2014JC010329, 2015.
Puleo, J. A., Hutschenreuter, K., Cowan, P., Carey, W., Arford-Granholm, M.,
and McKenna, K. K.: Delaware surf zone injuries and associated environmental
conditions, Nat. Hazards, 81, 845–867, 2016.
RNLI: RNLI 2017 Operational Statistics, 13 pp., available at: http://rnli.org (last access: 25 September 2019), 2017.
Robinet, A., Castelle, B., Idier, D., Le Cozannet, G., Déqué, M.,
and Charles, E.: Statistical modeling of interannual shoreline change driven by
North Atlantic climate variability spanning 2000–2014 in the Bay of Biscay,
Geo-Mar. Lett., 36, 479–490. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00367-016-0460-8, 2016.
Robles, L. A.: Cervical spine injuries in ocean bathers: wave-related
accidents, Neurosurgery, 58, 920–923, 2006.
Roelvink, J. A., Reniers, A. J. H. M., van Dongeren, A., de Vries, J. V.,
McCall, R., and Lescinski, J.: Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and
barrier islands, Coast. Eng., 56, 1133–1152, 2009.
Russell, R. J. and McIntire, W. G.: Beach cusps, Geol. Soc. Am. Bull., 76,
307–320, 1965.
Scott, T. M., Russell, P. E., Masselink, G., Austin, M. J., Wills, S., and
Wooler, A.: Rip current hazards on large-tidal beaches in the United
Kingdom, in: Rip Currents: Beach
Safety, Physical Oceanography and Wave Modeling, edited by: Leatherman, S. and Fletemeyer, J., CRC Press, Boca Raton, 225–242, 2011.
Scott, T. M., Masselink, G., Austin, M. J., and Russell, P.: Controls on
macrotidal rip current circulation and hazard, Geomorphology, 214, 198–215,
2014.
Splinter, K. D., Turner, I. L., Davidson, M. A., Barnard, P., Castelle, B.,
and Oltman-Shay, J.: A generalized equilibrium model for predicting daily to
interannual shoreline response, J. Geophys. Res., 119, 1936–1958,
https://doi.org/10.1002/2014JF003106, 2014.
Splinter, K. D., Gonzalez, M. V. G., Oltman-Shay, J., Rutten, J., and Holman,
R.: Observations and modelling of shoreline and multiple sandbar behaviour
on a high-energy meso-tidal beach, Cont. Shelf Res., 159, 33–45,
2018.
Stokes, C., Masselink, G., Revie, M., Scott, T., Purves, D., and Walters, T.: Application of multiple linear regression and Bayesian belief network approaches to model life risk to beach users in the UK, Ocean Coast. Manage., 139, 12–23, 2017.
Tastet, J.-P. and Pontee, N. P.: Morpho-chronology of coastal dunes in
Médoc: e new interpretation of Holocene dunes in Southwestern France,
Geomorphology, 25, 93–109, 1998.
Tolman, H. L.: User manual and system documentation of WAVE – WATCH III version 4.18, NOAA/NWS/NCEP/MMAB Technical Note 316, NOAA/NWS/NCEP/MMAB 194, 282 pp., 2014.
USLA: 2010–2014 National Lifesaving Statistics, available at: http://arc.usla.org/Statistics/current.asp?Statistics=5 (last access: 25 September 2019),
2015.
Villarini, G. and Vecchi, G. A.: Projected Increases in North Atlantic Tropical
Cyclone Intensity from CMIP5 Models, J. Climate, 26, 3231–3240, https://doi.org/10.1175/JCLI-D-12-00441.1, 2013.
West, N.: Beach Use and Behaviors, in: Encyclopedia of
Coastal Science. Encyclopedia of Earth Science Series, edited by: Schwartz, M. L., Springer, Dordrecht, the Netherlands,
2005.
Winter, G., van Dongeren, A. R., de Schipper, M. A., an van Thiel de Vries, J.
S. M.: Rip currents under obliquely incident wind waves and tidal longshore
currents, Coast. Eng., 89, 106–119, 2014.
Williamson, A.: Feasibility study of a water safety data collection for
beaches, J. Sci. Med. Sport., 9, 243–248, 2006.
Wright, L. D. and Short, A. D.: Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and
beaches: a synthesis, Mar. Geol., 56, 93–118, 1984.
Short summary
For the first time we explore the influence of environmental conditions (wave and weather conditions, tide elevation, and beach morphology) on surf zone injuries (e.g. drowning incidents, spine injuries). Serious injuries are caused by the two primary hazards found along high-energy surf beaches: shore-break waves and narrow seaward-flowing rip currents, which have different environmental controls. Results have strong implications for future beach safety management and education of beach users.
For the first time we explore the influence of environmental conditions (wave and weather...
Altmetrics
Final-revised paper
Preprint