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Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences An interactive open-access journal of the European Geosciences Union
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© Author(s) 2020. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
© Author(s) 2020. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.

  20 Jul 2020

20 Jul 2020

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This preprint is currently under review for the journal NHESS.

Laboratory study of non-linear wave-wave interactions of extreme focused waves in the nearshore zone

Iskander Abroug1,2, Nizar Abcha1, Armelle Jarno2, and François Marin2 Iskander Abroug et al.
  • 1Normandie Université, UNICAEN, UNIROUEN, CNRS, UMR 6143 M2C, 14000 Caen, France
  • 2Normandie Université, UNILEHAVRE, CNRS, UMR 6294 LOMC, 76600 Le Havre, France

Abstract. Extreme waves play a crucial role in marine inundation hazards and coastal erosion. In this article, we experimentally study nonlinear wave-wave interactions of large amplitude focused wave groups propagating in a two-dimensional wave flume over a mild slope (β = 1:25). The influence of the frequency spectrum and the steepness on the nonlinear interactions of focused waves are examined. The generated wave trains correspond to Pierson-Moskowitz and JONSWAP (γ = 3.3 or γ = 7) spectra. Subsequently, we experimentally approach this problem by the use of a bispectral analysis applied on short time series, via the wavelet-based bicoherence parameter, which identifies and quantifies the phase coupling resulting from non-resonant or bound triad interactions with the peak frequency. The bispectral analysis shows that the number of frequency components involved in the focusing process and the resulting phase coupling increases gradually and approaches 1 just prior to breaking, accordingly with the spectrum broadening and the energy increase in high frequency components. Downstream breaking, the values of phase coupling between the peak frequency and its higher harmonics decrease drastically and the bicoherence spectrum becomes less structured.

Iskander Abroug et al.

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Iskander Abroug et al.

Iskander Abroug et al.


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Latest update: 14 Aug 2020
Publications Copernicus
Short summary
Coastal regions are affected frequently by extreme waves resulting from storms causing human fatalities and economic losses. Using a bispectral analysis based on wavelet-based bicoherence tool, we present an experimental study of the propagation of large amplitude of focused waves in coastal regions. The results are consistent with the spectral broadening demonstrated in previous works using the classic Fourier analysis.
Coastal regions are affected frequently by extreme waves resulting from storms causing human...